Trip reports
Leader's review: WEST GREENLAND - Lorraine Craig’s recce trip
Following an overnight in Iceland where the Arctic terns were calling for much of the short night, we gathered at the airport in Reykjavik for the flight to Kangerlusaq and then on to the fishing port of Ilulissat. The airport is located north of the city, and we managed a quick glimpse of the ice in the fjord below us. Being a recce trip, none of us were quite sure what lay ahead, and each of us had our own expectations. The town was busy, with well-stocked supermarkets open until late,...
Trip report: EAST GREENLAND – Fiona’s Greenland adventure
The intercom crackled into life – it was the captain of our Icelandair Fokker 50 on the approach to the tiny ice-strip at Kulusuk airport on the south east coast of Greenland. “I’m sorry, we can’t make it to Constable Pynt today. The weather is too bad so we’ll have to return to Reykjavik ”. And so started my Greenland adventure! He landed skilfully on the snowy strip and we disembarked for a short while before retracing our journey to Iceland. Almost the...
Trip report: ANTARCTIC PENINSULA – Fiona crosses the Polar Circle
“First it was a creaking, groaning sound, then a sharp crack, like a gunshot. Finally a whooshing thump and suddenly the expedition staff were shouting “Off the beach, off the beach!”. We ran from the shoreline and watched the waves sucked from the shore, then a wall of water bore down on us, catching numerous penguins unaware and sending them headlong into the boiling surf. This was Niko Bay, close to the Antarctic Peninsula and we had just witnessed the...
Client report: ARCTIC NORWAY – Jude Perry & John Verschaeren's dog sledge
We were absolutely terrified when we were first unhooked from the ‘anchor’ vehicles on Day 1 of our dog sledging trip. Here we were, leashed to these bouncing bundles of energy and the din of 30 dogs ready to head out was deafening. We soon realised why our guide gave us so few instructions before starting, other than the all important ‘brake’ and ‘anchor’ tips, because you really have to do it to find out. The equipment provided locally was great –...
Client report: RUSSIAN FAR EAST – Chris Robb & Karen Murphy in Kamchatka
We enjoyed the trip from beginning to end and couldn’t really fault it. The Moscow extension was a great idea. Natasha, our guide in Moscow, was lovely and gave us a great tour of the Kremlin and Red Square. Kamchatka was superb. We felt so well looked after from the moment we stepped off the plane. The sledding was probably the best organised trip we have ever been on. The snowmobiles went ahead with food and luggage so by the time we arrived, food and hot tea were ready to go!...
Leader's review: GREENLAND - Lorraine Craig goes cross-country skiing
Is the ice-melting? (Answer, possibly). Will we see husky dogs? (Answer, yes, lots of them, and we will hear them too). Will we see polar bears? (Answer, from time to time). There are all questions that I am asked by slightly anxious skiers each year as we head north to Greenland. The simple answer is that we never know quite what to expect. In spring 2009 our base was a hut in the village, but this year we will be back to travelling with a mobile campsite guided by the local Inuit hunters...
Trip report: ARCTIC NORWAY – Fiona’s voyage: Aberdeen to Spitsbergen
“Last summer I boarded a Russian former oceanographic vessel for an unusual voyage from Aberdeen through the outlying Scottish Islands to Jan Mayen and finally to Spitsbergen, at 78 degrees North in the Arctic Circle. Though not luxurious, the ship was clean and comfortable with attractive cabins, cosy bar, convivial dining room and a great open-air observation deck which enabled far-reaching views of the North Atlantic and its numerous sea birds, concentrations of whales and rugged...
Trip report: ARCTIC NORWAY – Fiona learns to drive a dog sled team
“I am still enchanted by the indescribable beauty of Arctic Norway, 200km north of the Arctic Circle, where I had a memorable experience learning to drive my own dog sled team! “Crossing the Arctic Circle and lining up on its final approach, the plane dipped low, first over deep fjords and then crossing turquoise waters with a backdrop of snow covered peaks where tiny bright blue, red and yellow cabins stood starkly against the rugged backdrop of Arctic Norway. Later, as we...
Leader's review: GREENLAND – Frank Ryding looks back on his expeditions
Scoresby Sund is a land of contrast – a vast roughly square area of wilderness of almost 200 miles on each side, with high fjords surrounding the huge mass of Milne Land Island in the middle. In winter it is frozen solid but in summer it’s more like a Scottish autumn – the lower slopes burst into a short-lived explosion of greens, yellows and reds as grasses, flowers and dwarf-willow shrubs make use of the 24 hour daylight. In small covered launches we explored the...
Leader's review: RUSSIAN FAR EAST– Lorraine Craig encounters bears
We sat where the river entered the lake and waited for the bears to come out of the woods and start fishing for salmon. Within a few minutes there were three bears a short distance away. After a little while one ran towards us catching the fish about three metres from us – I think our hearts missed a beat! Then Valisi, our warden, with his hand on his rifle and flare as normal, indicated to us to turn around: a bear was crossing the spit a few metres behind us, perfectly framed in front...
