Dog-Sledging | Skiing | Walking & Kayaking

ARCTIC WALKING: Greenland | Arctic Russia

ARCTIC RUSSIA 2010

Arctic Russia covers a vast sweep of land from the Norwegian and Finnish borders eastwards across northern Siberia to the Chukotka and Kamchatka Peninsulas. Much of it is tundra dotted with countless lakes and pools through which vast north-flowing rivers wend their way to the Arctic Ocean. During its short intense summer these areas are the nesting sites for numerous birds and wild flowers brighten the ground. There are many indigenous people still living by herding reindeer or hunting.

Arcturus Expeditions has been organising expeditions to Arctic Russia since 1992. In early and late summer we shall return to Kamchatka, which was closed to both Russians and foreigners until 1990. It has scenery of towering snow-covered volcanoes of exquisite symmetry, lava fields, geysers, lush valleys and upland tundra, as well as amazing plant and animal life.

Solovetski Islands

Kamchatka in early summer 2010 - Sea mammals, birds, bears, whales, wild flowers and volcanoes

Kamchatka in late summer 2010 - Bears, volcanoes, native people, reindeer herders, autumn colours

Solovetski Islands

Solovetski Monastery: Arcturus Expeditions

Situated in the White Sea, 150km south of the Arctic Circle, the Solovetski Islands are one of the jewels of Russia. First settled by monks in the 1430s, the archipelago has six large and nearly 100 smaller islands, some of them covered by tundra and others with a groundcover of blueberry and crowberry. They abound with lakes, wildflowers and nesting birds and, in summer, beluga whales gather to calve in the shallow waters around the archipelago. On the largest island, surrounded by enormous stone walls, stands the legendary 16th Century Solvetski Monastery. It has a fascinating history and in the 20th Century was one of the most feared and infamous prison camps, described by Solzhenitsyn in his book 'Gulag Archipelago'. Now that the monks have returned, it is possible to visit the beautiful cathedral, church, refectory and other buildings enclosed by the great 'kremlin' or fortification. There are over 170 architectural and archaeological monuments on the islands, including 33 mysterious stone labyrinths dating back around 3,000 years. There is an unusual botanical garden and, in some places, using small boats and wooden rakes, men still collect seaweed to be made into local products. Accommodation here is simple - family-owned, comfortable, small hotels with delicious food.

It's an excellent place in summer for walking, both along the coast and on the many small paths that lead inland. Your journey is by train from St Petersburg to Kem and then by boat across the White Sea.

Late winter provides a different perspective - for now the islands are surrounded by the frozen White Sea and the landscape is crisp and snowy. After a day in Moscow, travel by train to Archangel on the banks of the ice-bound Dvina River, through a snow-covered rolling landscape of farms and silver birch forest dotted with wooden churches and hamlets. From here fly to the Solovetski Islands and spend your days exploring using local transport and snow-shoes, which are provided. There are many tracks through the woods of 'dancing birches' leading to small lakes and the ice-bound coast and, conditions permitting, you may be able to walk out on the ice to offshore islands and visit the monks in their isolated cells. Enjoy fishing through the ice, evenings sitting around a wood fire and the tradition of the Russian banya, or steam bath. Cross-country skiing at a leisurely pace is also available.

Sea mammals, birds, bears, whales, wild flowers and volcanoes

This expedition to Kamchatka will take place in early summer - the best time to see migrating and breeding birds, land and sea mammals and wild flowers before the mosquitoes become troublesome. We shall sail from Petropavlovsk on a small newly refurbished ocean-going cutter and explore the southeast coast of the peninsula. This is an extremely remote and seldom visited part since no roads reach it and very few boats venture along its shores. It is a wild and spectacular coast with towering, snow-capped, volcanoes including Viluchinsky and Mutnovsky. There are small islands and sea stacks which are the home of thousands of breeding seabirds including puffins and auks. Steller's Sea Lions haul out on the ledges. In sheltered bays Sea Otters and seals swim and on the high cliffs the magnificent Steller's Sea Eagle breeds.

On the black volcanic sands we should see Brown Bears turning over the seaweed, washed up by winter storms, to look for dead fish. At the mouths of rivers and deltas there will be a mixture of migrant land birds, waterfowl and shore birds. Whilst sailing we should see Gray whales and dolphins including Orcas. We shall go ashore to explore the lakes, cliffs, beaches and rivers and possibly visit a hot spring area. We shall combine this ship-based part of the expedition with a land-based visit to two mountainous areas of the peninsula.

The ancient volcano, Vachkazhets, is scenically one of the most beautiful places in Kamchatka and we can easily walk into its caldera and visit a beautiful waterfall. Mutnovsky, on the other hand, is still active and after climbing through a canyon past a glacier belching steam we enter the crater with its geysers, fumaroles, mud pools, spectacular rock formations and colours - a "journey to the centre of the earth". There will be plenty of time to savour the atmosphere of Kamchatka and follow our own interests whether they are ornithology, botany, geology, volcanology, photography or walking.

Kamchatka in late summer 2010

Bears, volcanoes, native people, reindeer herders, autumn colours

Our Kamchatka expedition takes place in late August, climatically one of the best times to travel and appreciate the spectacular scenery and autumn colours. In order to experience the richness of the region's flora, fauna and geology, we plan to visit as many habitats as possible including the central valley with the Kamchatka River, Tolbachik, Kzudach, Mutnovsky and Vachkazhets volcanoes, Kurilskoe Lake and the hot Khodukta River in the southern tundra. Kurilskoe Lake, part of a nature reserve, is one of the best places in the peninsula to see brown bears and Steller's sea eagles. Moving around by helicopter and truck we will enjoy a variety of experiences: watching bears feeding on the berries, salmon spawning, swimming in hot rivers and meeting the local people in the tiny settlement of Esso and staying overnight with the nomadic reindeer herders in the summer mountain camp. Weather permitting, we may be able to land in the crater of the Mutnovsky Volcano with its geysers, fumaroles, mud pools and spectacular rock formations. There will be plenty of time to follow your own interests be they ornithology, botany, geology, vulcanology, photography or walking. The trip ends in Petropavlovsk where we will learn its fascinating history and hear about life in Kamchatka today. This will be Arcturus's 24th trip to Kamchatka.